This is Best of New York, a monthly recap of the city’s very best restaurants, bars, arts, culture, shopping, etc. etc. It’s not necessarily the latest, greatest, newest, hottest (but those spots find their way in, too); it’s simply the places that made the city sing every month that I think you might like, too.
Smithereens – I popped into this New England-inspired seafood canteen in the E. Village, created by a former Claud chef and Momofuku Ko beverage director, for an impromptu solo three-course meal with wine pairings. And, wow, the entire experience was sublime. I was seated at the chef’s counter for a front row seat to the ever-entertaining open kitchen. The halibut and eggplant, steam-poached in sake for the most heavenly silky texture, was excellent, especially when paired with the Hermit Ram “salty white” wine, not to mention a gorgeous glass of Paul Gosset Champagne before that. For dessert, the blueberry apple cider donut doused in sugar was outrageous, somehow both light and dense, crunchy on the outside and caky on the inside with incredible sweet and sour notes. The hospitality was spot on and super sweet. I must return for the seaweed martini… and more!
Bartolo – Tasty new Spanish spot in adorable W. Village setting. But do we still like big sister Ernesto’s in the LES better? I think so.
Sailor (at top) – Yes, April Bloomfield’s maritime-core Fort Greene bistro is as good as everyone says. Favorite bites of a recent meal included juicy, sweet tomatoes and labneh on toast and sirloin smothered in blue cheese butter. Also, the deviled eggs. Also, the Caesar and the risotto-stuffed Swiss chard with radish relish and the profiteroles with ice cream and salted caramel. And all the martinis and Champagne.
Hoexters – New favorite Upper East Side bar/restaurant (that’s actually a 1970s revival) w a touch of downtown cool
Off Broadway & Books
The Wild Duck at Theatre For a New Audience (closed Sept. 28) – Keeping my Ibsen streak alive (A Doll’s House, An Enemy of the People, Ghosts)—and this one might be my favorite yet. A brilliant revival of a rarely produced play at one of my very favorite Off Broadway houses. Leave it to the classics to explain where we are today. Men behaving like absolute babies, senseless gun violence, psychopathy and sacrificial (wild duck) innocents. Beware of chronic righteousness—a national disease. And remember: “God didn’t do this; men did.” Further proof that Ibsen was the ultimate radical.
Center for Fiction – a most excellent indie bookstore in Downtown Brooklyn ideal for pre-/post-TFANA/BAM perusal.
